Retinol
Retinol is a form of Vitamin A, an ingredient that promotes skin renewal and enhances collagen production (which starts to decline in your 30s). As well as lessening the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, retinol can also reverse some of the side effects of sun damage.
At what age should you start using retinol?
"Retinol, or vitamin A, is best for 30+ skin with fine lines and wrinkles, however you can start using retinols younger if you want to. Younger skin types may not see the effects as much as older skin types as they have less age concerns, however prevention is better than cure. Retinol can enhance collagen production to prevent the formation of future lines and wrinkles. Combined with a high SPF and vitamin C in the morning, you are setting yourself up for great skin for life."
What improvements should we see in our skin after introducing retinol?
"Retinol has a multitude of benefits. It is able to enhance the production of collagen and stop it from being broken down. This leads to firmer, plumper skin with diminished fine lines and wrinkles. Retinol can also speed up the skin cell regeneration cycle, which encourages a smoother, more even complexion. Finally, retinol can stop the process which makes pigment in the skin, reducing hyper pigmentation for a bright and even skin tone. You should start to notice a difference after 4 weeks, but significant skin changes could take up to 3 months."
Is retinol suitable for all skin types?
"All skin types normally benefit from adding a retinol into their nighttime routine. Even blemish prone skins can benefit from the power of vitamin A. By speeding up the skin cell renewal process, retinol clears out clogged pores which could cause blemishes to promote a clear complexion. The only people who shouldn’t use retinols are those who are pregnant or breastfeeding, or those on medication which may clash with the vitamin A. If this is the case, always check with your doctor before starting on retinols."
Topical
vitamin A analogs
The best way
to a healthy skin is to prevent photodamage with liberal use of broad-spectrum
sun blocks and to limit sun exposure. When sun damage has occurred, treatment
consists of skincare, chemical peels, and laser resurfacing. The single most
effective component in a skincare regimen for reversal of sun damage is the use
of retinoids, which are derivatives of vitamin A. Familiar examples of
retinoids are retinol, retinal, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, and retinoic
acid. Retinoic acid was used solely for acne treatment until the late 1980s
when 2 published papers suggested that this agent could reverse the effects of
sun damage.7,8 Since then, retinoic acid has been more frequently prescribed
for its cosmetic benefits than for its effect on acne.9
All
trans-retinoic acid (tretinoin) is the most bioactive form of the retinoids
when topically applied to the skin causing thinning of the stratum corneum,
which leads to a smoother skin texture and allows for better penetration of
other topical agents. Initially it causes thickening of the epidermis to
improve the moisture barrier, although over time, the epidermal thickness
decreases to baseline. Tretinoin increases cellular turnover, which may explain
the initial increase in epidermal thickness. Increased cellular turnover also
helps with reepithelialization of the skin following an injury. Tretinoin
causes dispersion of the melanin granules in the epidermis, which helps reduce
hyperpigmentation in treated areas. It helps reverse keratinocyte atypia and
treats fine lines and wrinkles by increasing collagen production and
glycosaminoglycan (hyaluronic acid) deposition in the epidermis.10 Continued
use of tretinoin will improve the sallowness (yellow color) of the skin by
neovascularization of the dermis.
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